Do my rear shocks mount body up or boot up?
Icon, Radflo, and Sway-A-Way rear shocks need to be mounted with the body of the shock up, on the chassis side. We mount the Bilsteins with the body of the shock down. It looks a little better that way because you can see the body of the shock, but they can be mounted either way.
What’s the best option for the rear of my Titan: blocks or springs?
Blocks are the least expensive and most reliable way to get a few inches of height for the rear. They’re also easiest to install. Many people voice concerns about axle-wrap, but the axle-wrap on a Titan is going to be about the same whether you have blocks or not. The only blocks we sell are either billet aluminum or extremely strong cast steel blocks (not cast aluminum) and these blocks WILL NOT fail like cheap, old-style, cast aluminum blocks. The disadvantages of blocks are that there’s no performance gain, no wheel travel gain, and they’re just not as cool as springs. The PRG Deaver spring upgrade is the best rear upgrade you can get for your truck without going for a whole race-style pack. They’ll give you about two or three inches of lift, improved bottoming resistance, and prolong the life of the spring. The downside is that they are more expensive than the blocks, they’re more difficult to install (but not terribly difficult to install), and your ride height is not adjustable. Now, keep in mind, you can combine the springs and the blocks together to get more height, up to six inches, but with more than four inches you’re going to want to call because special blocks will be required.
What’s best for the rear of my Frontier: shackles, blocks, or spring upgrade?
Blocks are the least expensive and most reliable way to get a few inches of height for the rear. They’re also easiest to install. Many people voice concerns about axle-wrap, but on the Frontier it’s just not a big issue using moderate height blocks. You’ll have no more noticeable wrap than you already have. The only blocks we sell are either billet aluminum or extremely strong cast steel blocks (not cast aluminum) and these blocks WILL NOT fail like cheap, old-style, cast aluminum blocks. The disadvantages of blocks are that there’s no performance gain, no wheel travel gain, and they’re just not as cool as springs.
The shackle upgrade would be the next step up from blocks. They are fairly easy to install and our shackles give you a slight adjustability in ride height. Shackles can give you a bit more wheel travel if combined with the proper shock, but not much because the Gen 2 Frontier doesn’t allow for a very long shock in the rear. This is why we don’t sell Revolver-style shackles as you will see no wheel travel or flex gain. The downside of the shackle is that there is potential for them to cause premature spring sag due to overextension (too much compression) past what they spring was originally intended to do. This can be corrected with a bump stop extension. If you beat the hell out of your truck, the shackle is not a good choice without the spring upgrade. For normal use and light offroading your stock springs should not fatigue with the upgraded shackle. Another downside is that the ride is not improved with a shackle. If you’re consistently bottoming or require more spring rate, the shackle is not the fix for you.
Finally, our PRG Deaver spring upgrade are the best rear upgrade you can get for your truck without going for a whole race-style pack. They’ll give you about two or three inches of lift, improved bottoming resistance, and prolong the life of the spring. The downside is that they are more expensive than the blocks or the shackles, they’re more difficult to install (but not terribly difficult to install), and your ride height is not adjustable. Now, keep in mind, you can combine any of these products together, but this should give you an idea of what each one does individually.
Can I get more height from a Stage 2 ProComp or Fabtech kit?
The stage 2 kits are typically already very tall. Adding the upper arm and the appropriate spacer (NOT a leveling kit) can yield an additional inch or so of lift. Because each application is different and the demands of each customer are different it’s really best to call and we can discuss your options.
What’s the best replacement shock available for my Titan (or Frontier, or Xterra, or Pathfinder, or Armada)?
With all the changes going on in the industry and all the new products coming onto the market, this is too difficult to answer without talking with the customer and identifying his or her needs. Different shocks are best for different applications. It’s why we offer several brands instead of just one and why we don’t offer ALL brands. We are constantly revising and updating to provide the finest products and most current components available to our customers. All of our shocks options are exceptional or else we wouldn’t offer them.
I’m having a shop install my kit. Is there anything special they should know?
es!!! Please, please make sure they read the instructions thoroughly. Many shops are used to doing things in a certain order. We have refined the installation techniques for our PRG products and following them will make installation as quick and painless as possible. If they have any questions they should call the telephone number included with all our instructions.
I noticed that you recommend a shock change with the rear blocks and/or Deavers. Is this necessary?
It is certainly recommended that a longer shock be used for anything that raises the truck more than an inch. There will be no damage using the factory shock with these products, but ride quality will very likely suffer. You can always upgrade later at your convenience.
Why do you sell 1” AND 1.5” PRG billet rear blocks instead of less expensive cast steel or aluminum blocks?
Small, cheap cast blocks are known to crack and/or break in half. The billet blocks are virtually indestructible and for 1” and 1.5” applications they are the strongest choice. We also use plated grade 8 u-bolts which are stronger and tougher than stock and are also corrosion resistant. One other note about our rear blocks: they are all ground to be flat, unlike cast blocks. This keeps the axle from rocking on the spring pad and our blocks are extra long to ensure the least amount of axle wrap. Now, when you get up to a 2” block we do recommend a cast steel block. Why? Because at that point there is enough material that it is plenty strong. The cracking issues with cast steel blocks apply to smaller blocks where there is not enough material to support the application. We use only the finest steel blocks available.
I’ve seen other leveling kits on the market and some of them are cheaper. Why should I choose yours?
We make our kits with the finest materials. They are made from domestic aircraft quality 6061-T6 CNC machined billet aluminum. These kits won’t rust and are incredibly strong with no welds to fail. We use grade 8 hardware throughout and our kits are modular for future upgrades. We offer different height kits because of the uniqueness of the 2 and 4 WD models and because extensive testing has shown us that one kit won’t work for both 2 and 4 WD (one size does not fit all). We also recommend different sizes for 2008 and newer Titans. We include upgraded urethane bumpstops because we know that the stock bumpstops are not adequate; without the upgrade the factory shock may be damaged under compression. We even include replacement cotter keys because you should never reuse cotter keys and installing any leveling kit requires you to take them off. Photo instructions are included as well, as is a phone number in case you or your installer have any questions. This is by far the most complete kit on the market.
Will the ride change after I install the PRG leveling kit?
Because the leveling kit attaches to the top of the strut assembly, neither the spring rate or shock position are changed. The ride will be the same as stock for the most part. We include the urethane bump stops with our 2” and 2.5” kits to protect the shock while bottoming out and to provide a softer ride under full compression.